For the last week visitors have been asking us for inside
information on the possible government shutdown. Maybe they were hoping we’d
received some secret letter from congress assuring us that this was all just
for show and would be over quickly. We received the same letter every other
federal agency got from the president; one expressing sympathy with the
hardships of the now unemployed rangers, law enforcement, cashiers, janitors,
mechanics and hotel workers in the park.
All staff was required to come in to work for a four hour
day on the morning of the shutdown. These four hours (for which they will likely
never be paid) were to be spent signing furlough paperwork and closing down the
office. When I got there, trail closure signs were being handed out to the law
enforcement rangers to be posted at the head of every trail; threatening fines
and imprisonment. The reactions of the people I passed in the hall ranged from
anger to sadness to humor with each reaction frustrating and intensifying the
reaction of those who felt differently. Some were offended by the term “non-essential”
that had been applied to them and resulted in their furlough during the
shutdown. Though callous, it seems accurate to me; without tourists visiting
the parks there’s no one to tell stories to or guide down the trails or show
the night sky to. To me the term “non-essential” means that the whole idea of
the national parks is being deemed unnecessary; an indication that when times
get hard, we will discard the natural world in service of our own self
interest.
Campers in the park were given 48 hours to pack up and exit
the park; a timetable that I hoped would outlast the shutdown. Some of the
other volunteers and I made a plan to gather up the remaining campers for an impromptu telescope viewing at Paria viewpoint that evening, as
some last gesture for those that were trying to stick it out hoping that the
shutdown would be resolved. Some had their own telescopes and I planned to
sneak one of the park telescopes out before the building shut down. However, the HR
director told us that we absolutely could not invite
visitors out of their campsites into a park that was technically closed,
whether we were in uniform or not.
One of the volunteers spent his morning next to the bare
flag pole outside the locked doors of the visitor center talking to tourists
that were stopping by on their way out of the park. They were angry, and
rightfully so. A man from Poland stopped by; he had been planning this once in
a lifetime tour of the national parks for years and was here for a month now
with nowhere to go. Greater than their frustration was their sympathy with the
people that were there listening and talking to them on what was now unpaid
time.
With the geology lectures and
astronomy talks and rim walks cancelled, my coworkers KL, KP and I decided to
get out of the park and onto a trail that wasn’t yet closed. We checked the
national forest website to see if they had closed their trails. Their website
directed us to the USDA website for more information; following that link we
were met with a banner informing us that the USDA website was down due to the
shutdown. The department of agriculture barely has enough people to patrol the
forests when they can pay them so we figured they’d have no ability to close
all of their trails and decided to take our chances and drive out to the
lava tubes near Cedar Breaks.
In the residential area of the park, rangers who couldn't afford to pay rent on their cabin during the shutdown were packing their trucks and moving out. I said goodbye to a few whose season was being cut short and wouldn't be back until next year. On the way out of the park we
passed crowds of backpackers leaving the park on foot after being stranded when the buses didn't start up again that morning, leaving them to walk to the next town six miles down the road. The law enforcement rangers had
already set up a barricade beside the park entrance sign. Tourists were still
driving up to the barricade to get their pictures taken in front of the Bryce
Canyon sign. Tour buses were lingering at the rest stop while their drivers
tried to decide how to salvage their tours and the tourists, restless, resorted
to posing for pictures in front of anything in sight; gas stations, road signs,
other tour buses.
The
National Forest back roads were not closed and we made it up to Mammoth Cave.
The lava tube is a low, wide tunnel that was opened when lava intruded into the
earth here. The outer layer of the finger of lava solidified while the molten
inner core retreated; leaving a tunnel just big enough for a human to crawl
through and plenty spacious for families of bats. The ceiling alternately opens
up then closes down on the floor of once jagged rocks that have been worn
smooth by the passage of boots and blue jeans. A fire that appears to burn at
the far end of the tunnel is revealed to be the sunlight passing through the
yellowed leaves of a grove of aspens growing around the exit.
The fields behind the tunnels are
filled with broken pieces of black rock from the lava flow that covered this
area some 100,000 years ago. After climbing up a rubble pile, we reach another
stand of blazing yellow aspen. A fire has passed through this area and charred
trunks of trees still stand; some supported only by the thin core of the tree
left from the burn. Finally through some aspen where the yellow has begun to blush
red we find the edge of the plateau and can see a dirt road below passing by a
dry pond. Above that are the remains of a forest consumed by the greedy
beetles; in the distance are the red cliffs of the Claron formation and the
shuttered canyon.
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